Hiking the Alps

Friday 4 – Sunday 6 December 2009

Martha’s younger sister, Magdalena, invited us over to her place in Antwort (a funny village cause the word means answer in German) near the Alps. She’s the real sporty kind, mountain climbing, biking, hiking, etc. She stays there with her boyfriend Hans.

Maggie & Hans' pad in Antwort

Germans are such hospitable people. Was raining the first day we arrived so we decided to do some swimming at the thermal pools. They had both indoor and outdoor pools where the water comes from the hot springs nearby. You can swim right in the open even though its snowing outside. There’s this icy cold pool you can enter before you jump back into the hot pool. My knee got a good bruising trying to get away from Jerry holding me in there long.

Went hiking in the snowy alps the next day! Weather was gorgeously beautiful. We’ve been lucky with the weather so far as each time we wanted to do some outdoor activity, the sun comes out. Scenery is amazingly beautiful covered in a blanket of snow. Hiked quite a fair bit to a guesthouse way on top of the hill. We crossed over into Austria without even knowing it! Had Jagertee there, some sort of stronger Gluhwein. Tiring but rewarding day.

Hiked to Austria!

Gorgeous scenery

Postcard picture

Taking a breather overlooking a spectacular view

Maggie and Hans wanted to bake some Xmas cookies the next day so they sent us out walking around the village with Hans’ handheld GPS. According to it, we did 6.3km in 1 ½ hours walking 5kmph. Nice stroll taking pictures of the German neighbourhood.

Walking around the neighbourhood

It was time to head back to the farm and Heidi was so kind to pick us from the train station. Had dinner there before going back to Raklern.

City of Munich

Wednesday 2 – Friday 5 December 2009

Decided to head into the big city of Munich as Heidi had the day off on Wednesday. Stayed at her house that night so we could leave early by train in the morn.

Munich is quite a vibrant city. Didn’t get to see much of it the last time we were there as it was straight to the Oktoberfest grounds to it was nice to explore more of the city. Stayed to watch the infamous clock tower where the Bavarian statues dance around. It was a waste of 5 minutes but you just got to do it cause it’s the touristy thing to do :)

City of Munich

Went to the festival grounds again but this time they had another festival called Tollwood. It’s where other countries get to display, sell and promote their food and products. There were international performances, theatre, photography exhibitions, film screenings and loads of food. Ate quite a bit there think I put on a few kg just at Tollwood.

Tollwood grounds

Tollwood activities

Met up with Heidi’s friend Christian who has been in Malaysia many times. I don’t know y but I found it was so hilarious when I asked him what he did in Malaysia and he replied, well, just lepaking around. Imagine hearing that from a German guy in Munich. It tickled me pink.

He brought us to a Medieval Christmas Market where the shops and people where decorated and dressed as in the medieval period. Felt like we were transported back in time with the Robin Hood clothes. They even had the clothes and weapons on sale.

Medieval Christmas market

Heidi went back the same day so we stayed on for another night at Maria’s apartment. Day was good so we walked into town. Wasn’t that far really when you’re looking around. Planned so many things like going to the museum and this monastery where the monks brew their own beer but we ended up having a lazy stroll around the city and to the English Garten where we just sat on a bench in the sun. Was really nice.

There’s this small part of the river in the garden where people surf ‘stationary’ like. Funny to see people in their full dry suit and a surf board in the middle of the city. Oh, had the most awesome pork knuckles at Augustiner Bierhall too.

Met up with Jerry’s friend Allie and we did the markets and Tollwood again.

Strolling the English Garten

Farm life in Raklern

Sunday 29 Nov – Friday 11 Dec 2009

There’s too much to write about the farm so this won’t be in chronological order. The organic farm is owned by Martha Gierl, whose husband Manfred passed away a few months ago in a bike accident. Jerry’s helping her out with the operations for roughly 2 months as she needs the help, especially during the winter time.

Raklern farm

Farm interior

The farm is in Raklern, and the farm is the only house in Raklern. Funny eh? There are a few areas around the farm with different names and some has a few more houses within the area. Nearest biggest town is Deggendorf, the first town I visited the day I arrived. Jerry took me to my first Christmas market where I drank my first Gϋlhwein. I fell in love then. It’s red wine cooked in spices -cinnamons & cloves (I got the recipe from Martha already!) – and served warm or hot. Perfect drink to warm your hands in the cold German weather. Totally love it!

My first Gluhwein in Deggendorf

Martha has bout 30 cows and 3 calves when I was there. They milk and feed the cows every morning (Jerry wakes up at 5.30am when the milk truck comes every other day and 7am when it doesn’t) and there’s tons of other stuff to do at the farm.

Mooooo

Jerry’s been showing me the ropes, and I’ve been helping with the feeding of silage, grass that has been sitting for a while. The cows love it but the smell really sticks to your clothes! Didn’t manage to milk the cow by hand. Nothing came out even though I tried many times! Played around with the little digger and tractor and hoed the garden with fertilizer too. Felt good to be doing physical work at the farm. I’m building those muscles! But I’m eating more too and it’s mostly meat and bread. Not much vegetables here during the winter.

Working around the farm

They have a few other animals here like chickens, a goose, ducks, pigeons, guinea pigs, rabbits, cats, a donkey (Bella), a horse (Sissy) and 2 lovely dogs (Tinka & Goldie). It’s really good to have fresh eggs laid by free range chickens in the morning and fresh organic milk straight from the cow. Can’t get any fresher than that!

Other animals at the farm

I quite like the life here. It’s quiet, peaceful and so different from the hustle and bustle of the city. People are hardworking and honest, their concerns a world away from ours. Martha’s boys, Simon (10) & Basti (6), are good kids too. Very family orientated life where grandma comes to make cookies and the family sits down together for meals.

Family life at the farm

There are miles and miles of fresh air and lovely walks that you can do with the dogs, although they mostly take us for walks than the other way around. They are really strong. Took them out twice. Once to Maria’s (Martha’s elder sis) house and once to Kneippanlage, a really cold stream where you have to walk a few rounds in your bare feet. Freaking cold especially during the winter. It’s supposed to be good for your immune system.

The first week had been really hectic doing all sorts of activities but the second week was more relaxed as Jerry had to attend to the farm. Our nights were spent watching dvds by the fireplace and having dinners at the local pubs/restaurants. Went to an English do one night where everyone made a point to speak English. An elderly lady founded it and it’s the 3rd gathering when I attended. There were 4 asylum seekers from Nigeria there too. On another night, we went rock climbing with Heidi, her husband Robert and daughter Emma at an indoor gym.

My last day was spent in Therme Erding, Europe’s largest hot water spa world. It’s a huge theme & spa park divided into 3 sections – thermal pools, water slides and adult spa. You got to be 16 years an older to get into the adult spa as no bathing suits are allowed. It’s unisex too. Europeans are really not conservative ;)

We bought tix for the thermal & water slides parks. Slides are cool but seem ‘safer’ than Sunway’s slides. There are 16 slides there but only a few that are worth going more than once. Had loads of fun though and ended the day with a weissbeir at the spa’s pool bar. Jerry sent me off to the airport after that. Sad to leave Germany but it’s good to be heading back home too. Had a great time here. Everyone had been really hospitable and lovely. Was a good 2 weeks. I’m very grateful for everything.

Flight was cancelled!

Saturday 28 Nov 09

Our flight to Frankfurt from Bilbao was cancelled!! We were happily sitting in the business class lounge sipping on cava and thinking what a nice life this is and we were told 1/2 hour before boarding that the flight was cancelled. Not delayed - CANCELLED. This is Lufthansa, a German company for god's sake.

Rushed to the ticket counter and there was this bitch who gave double standards to asians. Made us go to the end of the line coz it was so messy and we were in the 'wrong' queue, even though we got there first and are on bloody business class.

Waited a good hour in line. Damn inefficient bitch. Finally a nicer lady helped us out. We were the last to get served. The rest were panicking coz they had connecting flights and business meetings back in KL & Singapore. But it turned to be much better for me. I managed to change my flight direct to Munich (although I burned my train ticket but who cares for the 7 1/2 hour ride anyways) and get to fly back to KL from Munich too!! Double hip hooray!!

Lufthansa was nice enough to put us up in this lovely 5 star Hotel Indautxu in Bilbao. Dinner was even provided for and since we are business class passengers, we get our own individual rooms. Saw the passenger list and some had double & even triple sharing.

Dinner at Hotel Indautxu

But before the airport fiasco, we walked the streets of Logrono for the last time to visit some markets to buy meat. Spain is filled with pork. Think the are obsessed with it. Check out what they had at the markets. I couldn't buy much meat as I didn't want to lug it around Germany for 2 weeks but I bought a few flat packs back. Iberico ham is Euro 69 a kg! Thank god we bought it at the factory for a wholesale price of E25 a kg.

Pigs, pigs and more pigs

Visited a nice cathedral to thank whoever is up there for what i've been given. Saw capoeira in the streets by little kids too. They were good!

Cathedral in Logrono

Had to visit the tapas bars again before we left and I just love the mushrooms. Heaven.

Ham & wine – the life

Friday 27 Nov 2009

I woke up late today at 9am! Got ready in 10 mins to go to Monte Nevado, a jamon (pronounced hamon) factory an hour away from Logrono. The company produces 75% for their local market and the rest is exported to the rest of the world. Malaysia’s difficult to get in coz loads of forms need to be filled. A pity really.

They produce 3 types of breed – 70% Serano (white pig), 20% Iberico (black pig) & 10% Mangalica (almost extinct Hungarian pig that looks like a sheep coz of its curly white wool). They are the only company in the world to produce Mangalica. The director of quality control, Alejandro (damn young & good looking!) took us around and explained the whole process of curing the jamon.

The raw meat is first thawed, added with curing agents, put in the salting chamber, washed, shaped, placed in a drying chamber, coated in fat to protect from dehydration, hung in the aging room and finally packed. Whole process takes an average of about 18 months for the Serano and 30 months for the Iberico and Mangalica. Obviously, the last 2 are more expensive.

I tried my hands at cutting it too! It’s much harder than it looks. 3 of them bought a whole leg (market price E400 but they got it at bout E100+). I bought a small cut from one of them for E20.

At the jamone factory

We spent a bit too long at the jamone factory so was late to Bodegas Lopez Heredia, a small winery that still makes their wine the traditional way, exactly the same 132 years ago. They are the oldest winery in their neighbourhood and the 3rd oldest in Rioja. 80% is for local market, rest for export. Amazing place where everything is done painstakingly by hand.

Their underground cellar is simply out of this world. I was in awe the entire trip coz everything is the same more than 100 years ago. It was like stepping back in time. Almost everything there was built by Maria Jose Lopez’s (the lady who showed around) great grandfather. They still use their 1910 pressing machine. She admitted that others think they are crazy to produce the old-fashion way but she says it works and that’s what gives character to their wine. They had bottles covered in cobwebs from 1920!

Their modern futuristic shop

Bodegas Lopez Heredia, where everything is done the traditional way.

Maria treated us to a late lunch (after 3pm!) at La Vieja Bodega and we sampled 9 different types of wines! One of them was a white 1987 vintage. Phew. She gave us a bottle each to take home but I got an extra rose. Will bring it to Jerry in Germany.

Lunch at La Vieja Bodega

Went to Museo Vivanco after that, an amazing museum dedicated to the culture of wine. We were given a tour of the place after opening hours by this lovely old man. No pictures allowed unfortunately.

Museum of Wine Culture

Loli gave us ½ hour to put our stuff in the room and we went for a walk around Longrono. Only me, Lorella & Maya went. The rest were too tired but it’s their lost coz they missed out on the nicer part of the old town and the night life there. Funny, no rowdy drunk people. Night life here is a family affair at the tapas bars eating & drinking. An old guy who couldn’t speak a word of English tried to pick us up and offered us wine & mushrooms. Apparently that’s normal coz a few tapas bars specialise in mushrooms only. Went back before midnight to pack.

Night life in Spain - Tapas & wine

Most orgasmic experience ever!

Wednesday 26 Nov 09

Reached Logrono today, the capital of La Rioja region (pronounced La Rioha). Nothing great about the city. Very industrial like. Managed to find MNG but it was all winter clothing so ended up not buying anything. Can't find my magnet shop again. Damn.

Industrial looking city of Logrono

All's not lost as La Rioja is very much known for their red wines. The region is more uniform in their climate and soil, thus producing more uniform wines as well.

Our itinerary for the evening was a visit to Bodegas Muga, one of the finest wineries in La Rioja. It's a family owned business established in 1932. It's run by the 3rd gen now and owner Juan Muga was kind enough to bring us for a tour of the place.

The place, set in a 200+ year old stone house is simply awesome!! The first thing that greets you is the rows of oak barrrels. I was simply awed to be in the winery. Juan took us to the fermentation, maturing, bottling and aging process. They produce their own barrels! He spoke a bit too fast and his English was not that good. A pity really as I was really interested in the process.

They produce 50% for the local market and the rest are exported to various countries around the world, Malaysia included. Their distributor for us & Singapore is Cellermasters Wines. 80% of their wine are red, 10% white (mostly for exports), 7% rose and 3% is sparkling or cava.

Muga Winery factory

Juan and his wines, producing their own barrels, a 1968 harvest! and M'sia distributors

After the tour he took us to this lovely dining room complete with a fire place. I was still in esctacy and had that goofy grin plastered still. It was just so surreal to be here. We had an awesome 3 course dinner paired with 7 different types of wine! I'm not a red wine person but their reds were really easy to drink. The last red, Aro 2005, cost E120 a bottle! We had cava for the last round. Heaven.

The gorgeous dining room

Our food & wine

Cava, Spanish sparkling wine

Took some pics around the place before we left and I had to get a pic with Juan. I'm in love with Spanish wines. The winery was the best part of the trip so far. Extremely orgasmic. I can't describe the feling. It's just magical. I still have the silly grin. It's gonna be sweet wine dreams tonight.

Pics with Juan at winery facade

Gourmet food in a can anyone?

Thursday 26 Nov 09

The food industry is the second largest economy for the region of Navarra, a northern region in Spain. You won't guess the 1st - it's car manufacturing - and VW at that. The Spanish thinks of it as a german brand now. Their 3rd is wind power to produce energy. Interesting.

Since agriculture contributes to 17% of the economy in Spain and Navarra is one of the important regions, we had to visit a gourmet factory. The first one was El Navarrico, a company since 1960, and we were being shown around by the son of the owner, Patxi Pastor Salcedo.

They produce 160 different types of gourmet food in bottles and cans mainly for the gourmet restaurant market. Normal consumers can't get these products cause of the pricey quality. Nothing much was in production cause the asparagus season is over but we did manage to see how the lentils and dry beans were cooked, bottled and sterilized though. Their export markets are Thailand, HK & Japan in Asia, Europe & North America. Again, Malaysia don't get their products. They are entering Singapore though.

Lentil bottling process

They prepared some vegetables for us to taste like white asparagus, piquillo peppers and cristal peppers. Liked the cristal peppers cause of the smokey 'crispy' texture. Good to eat veges after all that meat.

The owner's son and the various vegetables we tasted

The next factory we visited was Rosara, a similar company producing more varieties of gourmet food (190 different types) but more towards ready-to-eat poducts. They do sauces, pastes,etc. The company is younger, only 24 years old but the quality is similar to the first factory. They supply to gourmet shops as well but more for the local market. Export market is only 10% to US, Japan, Europe & Mexico.

The owner's son, Saul Gimenez Torero, showed us around and prepared a lovely tapas lunch for us. He even gave us a tapas set to bring back. So nice of him.

Saul at the Rosara factory. Bottling chick peas

Rosara products and our tapas lunch

Olives & Cheese

Wednesday 25 Nov 09

Did you know that Spain is one of the biggest olive oil producers in the world? The Italians buy the olive oil from Spain, repackage it as their own and market it as Italian olive oil. Ingenious ye the Italians. Good marketers. Poor Spanish people don't get the credit they deserve.

I had the lucky opportunity to visit Aceite Artajo, an olive farm in Tudela, an hour south of Pamplona. It was a pity that the harvest season is over (Oct & Nov) so there were no olives left on the trees but we did get a tour of the factory though.

The 200 hectre plantation produces about 150,000 litres of extra virgin olive oil (they only produce that), the first pressing of the olives. They donate the leftovers to other companies to make virgin oil from the 2nd press and normal olive oil from subsequent presses. They are a medium producer exporting to Japan, US and Central Europe. Sadly, not to our parts of the world yet.

To make up for the lack of olives on the trees, they brought us to an olive farm where they had olive trees that were 300 years old!!

Artajo extra virgin oil products

Artajo olive farm & factory and me with a 300 year old olive tree

The owner, Ignacio Puras Gil, a lovely old man that didn't speak English, cooked for us an absolutely delicious meal. Navarra is famous for vegetables and Tudela is particularly famous for their cogollos (type of lettuce) and artichokes. They use minimal seasoning, just salt and olive oil. Damn healthy. Good to eat vegs after so long. His roasted lamb gave Shueh an orgasmic experience too hehe. Ambience was just heavenly.. perfect lunch overlooking an olive farm.

The perfect lunch - good food in the middle of an olive farm

Went back to Pamplona for a Spanish cheese tasting education. Spain produces 120 diffrent types of cheese from all over the region but Rafael Barbajero from Consorcio de los Quesos Tradicionales de Espana brought only 10 different cheeses for us to try.

Spain is famous for their goat and sheep milk cheeses. I liked the Montenebro, made out of goat milk. Moldy on the outside, slightly stinky and solf on the inside. Found out it's one of the most expensive ones, bout Euro 25 per kilo. Oh, did you know you need to use apple to clean your palatte before the next cheese tasting? Water won't do the trick. Learn something everyday.

The 10 different types of Spanish cheese

Rafael Barbajero cutting Tetilla (means little breast). Loved the Montenebro.

Running of the bulls

Tuesday 24 & Wed 25 Nov 09

We are in Pamplona! Famous for San Fermines, the running of the bull event that is held from 7-14 July every year. Events starts with some grand fireworks at 8am on 7th July from the city hall. Six bulls are then released from the paddock and thousands of crazy people will run ahead of them. Few people die every year because of this but the people still keep on coming.

I really wanted to walk the route so we took a little walk after dinner to the start of the route right through to the bull ring. The route’s about >800m or so and the run only lasts for 2-3 minutes. Awesome! Could almost feel the excitement of the reenactment. They even had a countdown to the next San Fermines right to the last second.

The town hall - where the party starts

The bull's route and the countdown to the next San Fermines

The final destination - the bull ring

What I was a bit upset about was the lack of souvenir shops in Pamplona. Maybe it was the streets I chose to walk down on but I couldn’t find a single shop to buy my fridge magnet! That and the lack of time as well. Was so disappointed not to find one that the ICEX lady from Pamplona offered to send me one by post. Thank god for that or I’ll be really pissed.

That's Hemmingway's cafe bottom right

The hotel we stayed in, Hotel Palacio de Guendulain, was really lovely. It was an old palace from the 17th century that was recently converted into a 5 star hotel. It was only 2 months old when we stayed there. Classic medieval deco. Precious. They even had the Count’s old carriage and some antique cars on display.

Hotel Palacio de Guendalain

One thing about our Spanish hosts are they know how to treat us well. Brought us to a fancy restaurant again on the first night called La Nuez, direct translation meaning the walnut. Lovely food. I preferred this meal to Mugaritz (they’ll kill me for this I know) but that’s just simple me. I like my food to look like what it’s supposed to be.

Restaurante La Nuez

They brought us to a nice fancy tapas bar the next night. Tapas bars are not supposed to be a sit down affair but this one was because they were heading in that direction. Restaurant was called Roncesvalles and the owner Miguel Sanchez, spent a good whole night layaning us. Young (29 years old!) & good looking but unfortunately married.

Roncesvalles, vinos y pintxos

Oh, didn’t make it to MNG either cause it was closed by the time I got there. But bought a pair of boots from Zara and explored their huge Cortes de Ingles, a huge 8 storey shopping complex.