Ham & wine – the life

Friday 27 Nov 2009

I woke up late today at 9am! Got ready in 10 mins to go to Monte Nevado, a jamon (pronounced hamon) factory an hour away from Logrono. The company produces 75% for their local market and the rest is exported to the rest of the world. Malaysia’s difficult to get in coz loads of forms need to be filled. A pity really.

They produce 3 types of breed – 70% Serano (white pig), 20% Iberico (black pig) & 10% Mangalica (almost extinct Hungarian pig that looks like a sheep coz of its curly white wool). They are the only company in the world to produce Mangalica. The director of quality control, Alejandro (damn young & good looking!) took us around and explained the whole process of curing the jamon.

The raw meat is first thawed, added with curing agents, put in the salting chamber, washed, shaped, placed in a drying chamber, coated in fat to protect from dehydration, hung in the aging room and finally packed. Whole process takes an average of about 18 months for the Serano and 30 months for the Iberico and Mangalica. Obviously, the last 2 are more expensive.

I tried my hands at cutting it too! It’s much harder than it looks. 3 of them bought a whole leg (market price E400 but they got it at bout E100+). I bought a small cut from one of them for E20.

At the jamone factory

We spent a bit too long at the jamone factory so was late to Bodegas Lopez Heredia, a small winery that still makes their wine the traditional way, exactly the same 132 years ago. They are the oldest winery in their neighbourhood and the 3rd oldest in Rioja. 80% is for local market, rest for export. Amazing place where everything is done painstakingly by hand.

Their underground cellar is simply out of this world. I was in awe the entire trip coz everything is the same more than 100 years ago. It was like stepping back in time. Almost everything there was built by Maria Jose Lopez’s (the lady who showed around) great grandfather. They still use their 1910 pressing machine. She admitted that others think they are crazy to produce the old-fashion way but she says it works and that’s what gives character to their wine. They had bottles covered in cobwebs from 1920!

Their modern futuristic shop

Bodegas Lopez Heredia, where everything is done the traditional way.

Maria treated us to a late lunch (after 3pm!) at La Vieja Bodega and we sampled 9 different types of wines! One of them was a white 1987 vintage. Phew. She gave us a bottle each to take home but I got an extra rose. Will bring it to Jerry in Germany.

Lunch at La Vieja Bodega

Went to Museo Vivanco after that, an amazing museum dedicated to the culture of wine. We were given a tour of the place after opening hours by this lovely old man. No pictures allowed unfortunately.

Museum of Wine Culture

Loli gave us ½ hour to put our stuff in the room and we went for a walk around Longrono. Only me, Lorella & Maya went. The rest were too tired but it’s their lost coz they missed out on the nicer part of the old town and the night life there. Funny, no rowdy drunk people. Night life here is a family affair at the tapas bars eating & drinking. An old guy who couldn’t speak a word of English tried to pick us up and offered us wine & mushrooms. Apparently that’s normal coz a few tapas bars specialise in mushrooms only. Went back before midnight to pack.

Night life in Spain - Tapas & wine

Most orgasmic experience ever!

Wednesday 26 Nov 09

Reached Logrono today, the capital of La Rioja region (pronounced La Rioha). Nothing great about the city. Very industrial like. Managed to find MNG but it was all winter clothing so ended up not buying anything. Can't find my magnet shop again. Damn.

Industrial looking city of Logrono

All's not lost as La Rioja is very much known for their red wines. The region is more uniform in their climate and soil, thus producing more uniform wines as well.

Our itinerary for the evening was a visit to Bodegas Muga, one of the finest wineries in La Rioja. It's a family owned business established in 1932. It's run by the 3rd gen now and owner Juan Muga was kind enough to bring us for a tour of the place.

The place, set in a 200+ year old stone house is simply awesome!! The first thing that greets you is the rows of oak barrrels. I was simply awed to be in the winery. Juan took us to the fermentation, maturing, bottling and aging process. They produce their own barrels! He spoke a bit too fast and his English was not that good. A pity really as I was really interested in the process.

They produce 50% for the local market and the rest are exported to various countries around the world, Malaysia included. Their distributor for us & Singapore is Cellermasters Wines. 80% of their wine are red, 10% white (mostly for exports), 7% rose and 3% is sparkling or cava.

Muga Winery factory

Juan and his wines, producing their own barrels, a 1968 harvest! and M'sia distributors

After the tour he took us to this lovely dining room complete with a fire place. I was still in esctacy and had that goofy grin plastered still. It was just so surreal to be here. We had an awesome 3 course dinner paired with 7 different types of wine! I'm not a red wine person but their reds were really easy to drink. The last red, Aro 2005, cost E120 a bottle! We had cava for the last round. Heaven.

The gorgeous dining room

Our food & wine

Cava, Spanish sparkling wine

Took some pics around the place before we left and I had to get a pic with Juan. I'm in love with Spanish wines. The winery was the best part of the trip so far. Extremely orgasmic. I can't describe the feling. It's just magical. I still have the silly grin. It's gonna be sweet wine dreams tonight.

Pics with Juan at winery facade